It became plain , though the hotel the band were staying at in Nova Siri may have had 100 bedrooms, that they were the sole occupants. Breakfast was laid out for multiple guests but the 4 of everything on the buffet was a clue. The pride with which the owner (they guessed) checked them in and served them breakfast was charming. In their discussion at checkout, the feeling of being let down by the EU (rather than the Italian Government) was quite illuminating. “You were right to leave” summed up what they felt about the EU.
Leaving Nova Siri this morning, the team had a great view back over the town and the hill it sits on…the one they had to climb to get there yesterday. It looks like something you might find at Pinehurst No. 2 Golf Course!
On the ride, they turned in-land to head to Matera and a dramatically changed scenery. Arid landscapes with hills that looked like oversized termite hills. It was a day of climbing on cracked roads and bodies and bikes were showing the strain after 19 days of cycling. An error at a junction saw both Richards fall off their bikes. Fatigue was setting in and training wheels are top of the shopping list for tomorrow! The landscape became more alien and villages clung precariously to hill tops. Lunch was in a lively bar in the small hill-top town of Pomarico, where they had homemade burgers (their first in Italy), opposite the Marquess Palace which was built in the 18th century. They then rode the last hill up to Matera with rolling thunder and ominous rain threats.
Matera was a total revelation. A fascinating city that looked as if it was designed by the producer of a Star Wars movie. Built on a high gorge with an old town built into the rock and caves that had been occupied since Roman times until as recently as 1950s. This is definitely a town worth a visit.
John cycled out to meet the pros but got stuck in Montescaglioso - he should have focused on the “Monte” in the name. It give the opportunity to take shelter from the spot or two of rain that began to fall and have a gelato, so all was not lost! Matera, where they are tonight, is somewhat inland compared to the last few days and so no swimming today, except with their rubber ducks in the bath, waiting for John to catch them up!
Tomorrow they are off to join the Adriatic coast for the ride up to Venice, so lots more swims to come. Do they have sharks in the Adriatic, I wonder?!
For dinner the guys went “haute cuisine”, or “Alta Cucina” I suppose. Seated in front of white linens in the old main square, they had starters such as fresh anchovies with apple, followed by pasta with local sausages and a wonderful lamb dish. Desserts followed, although sadly the Happiness Cake was finished before they could sample it. They drank a local wine recommended by the waiter which ranked, by popular consensus, as one of the best they have had. The wine was a 2013 Drogone d’Altavilla from the Cantine Madonna delle Grazie di Lattoraca Guiseppe, made from the Aglianico del Vulture grape. That seems like a mouthful even for an Italian!
The AirBnb right in the center of the old town had spectacular views from its balconies. One of the nicest towns they have visited.
Data: 66 miles (105km), elevation 5,118ft (1,551m). Cumulative: 1,457 miles (2,331km), elevation 77,257ft (23,767m).